Would they go to the informality of jeans or would they be too smart? Mine are about 7 or 8 years old and have become better with age. https://viberg.com/products/service-boot-cap-toe-horween-dark-cognac-shell-cordovan. Hi Simon, do you think Aldens moc toe in Barrie last would be too casual and wide for mid-grey flannel trousers with 18.5cm leg openings? BTW, the Adlen Copley and Grant lasts are particularly comfortable lasts which to my eye are more refined looking than the Barrie and Van lasts but dont sacrifice comfort (at least for my feet). one mor question. Ignoring any particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from cordovan? Please do let me know what are your thoughts on the last and style of this particular boot and how I intend to style it with the pair of jeans I own mentioned here. Plenty of people do wear topsiders, or boat shoes, over here too. Some brands makes the shoes with this natural cordovan, some doesnt. I think it is really unique and pleasing to my eye because of the short vamp. 1) Can I say cordovan shoes can be worn with both black and brown belts alike in most outfits? I have wanted a pair of cordovan tassel loafers for decades. Compared to other leather shoes Ive owned (a pair of Wolverine 1000 Mile shoes in brown Chromexcel leather, another pair of Alden penny loafers in snuff suede, a pair of Herms calfskin leather boots, among others), breaking in this pair of loafers was difficult. Wouldnt you say that a black cordovan loafer is more casual than a black calf one, and perhaps comparable to a black suede one? Ive been thinking about a pair of boots in Cordovan. Ask for Jim when you email them. Privacy Policy. Thanks. 1. But I wouldnt use black cream or polish yet. A touch more casual basically. I never understood what the bone should do, either. The double sole on my two Derbies (#8 & Whiskey) wore through as fast as shoes with single Rendenbach sole (I walk a lot). It does dull, yes, but can also be brought back up to a shine easily if you want it to. These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. They obviously look different, but wondering whether youd have them in the same category as not being obviously better than brown or black. Id love a new highly versatile boot at around this formality that could last over a decade. Wear them lightly, then add another layer of protective cream or conditioner, and then let it absorb overnight. The reason is that while the waterproof nature might be the big attraction for you, it isnt for everyone or hasnt been the reason theyve been worn in the past. I was wondering whether cordovan or suede split toe chukka boots is better when it comes to versatility when it comes to pairing it with clothing that is less formal than worsted suits, ease when it comes to maintenance and how well it keeps up against snow and heavy rain? that I have kicked around quite badly. When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. It sounds like they maybe havent had shoe trees in them all the time as well? It was a long, sunny period and I didnt look at them again for a few weeks until we had some unexpected rain. I have never liked wearing brown shoes with either navy suits or charcoal suits, as I prefer the shoe to be darker than suit, and therefore opt for black. Thanks again for taking the time to reply. Well, Shoegazing is here to serve you. Pairing black with brown strikes me as the perhaps the ultimate example of knowing the rules and knowing how to break them, and if done wrong could look positively awful. Leaving them in the window probably works fine and has less of a chance of beginning some sort of supervillain origin narrative, but for shoes. I havent tried it David, no. Some people describe colour 8 as burgundy, but for me its much closer to a mix of purple and black. Theyre a prototype so not currently available Im afraid. Not really to be honest Mike. But, it will better retain its coloration across wears. If I find some really old, beaten up shell shoesshould I buy them? and Im now interested in buying a pair of casual/dress boots. That last is only more comfortable on most people because it is larger and so more forgiving. Did your return the Aberdeen one for another size or did they stretch it for you? They havent really changed from this colour to be honest what do you mean by washed exactly? And very marginally higher on the Alden tassel than the full strap too. Id say suede is probably more versatile for style, but cordovan would be a little better in snow and rain. Does the colour 8 vary that much from pair to pair? It looks longer on both tassel. The Aberdeen last wasnt available at the time. Natural cordovan on a pair of Saint Crispins shoes, after a rainy day. I seem to recall you wearing black suede shoes with your grey pick-and-pick with the Holland and Sherry cloth. I decided to buy a pair of dark brown cordovan loafers from Crockett & Jones shortly after the article, and they arrived today. My Alden Norwegian bluchers feel substantially heavier than, say, calf Dovers from Edward Green. Kind of difficult to find a store and compare by myself in my area. And I prefer the Alden shade of the colour 8 cordovan too. A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. BTW, Horween has produced very differing shades of colour #8 through the years. Id love to see something one day on leather alternatives for shoes. : Obviously not leave them in direct sun for two months. Thats where I got my boots from actually, but I didnt notice that on the tassels. Because shell cordovan reacts differently to lotions and other forms of leather care, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products. I see. I guess the cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but for now not what I would wear daily. How would you compare Alden & Edward Greens Greenwich in Cordovan burgundy? They'd become a bit darker. Off the thread slightly, but Im now big into Lizard and other exotics. The leather (shell cordovan) was immediately prized for its . Most farmers have much greater respect for animals than non-farmers. No comparison to Rendenbach soles. If its any consolation, Americans have a smaller shoe industry and less to choose from generally than we do. How do you like to wear your Alden Norwegian bluchers? I havent found any to be perfect to be honest, but these from Skolyx are probably the best, particularly if you cut them down (they are quite big) if needed. Does the shine dull quickly? If you dont own cordovan, or have been put off by it in the past, Id put forward two major arguments. after Elliots brother found him in the river! Shell cordovan comes from horses and is named after the Spanish region of Cordoba from which the specific leather tradition originates and is derived from the hindquarter of a horse, referred to as the shell. Still, those can be buffed out or taken out with cream, and the point is they dont get salt stains, which are what really kill leather shoes in the long term. Shell cordovan is a loved material by many, with its special characteristics and durability. The understated look and outstanding durability of the shoes have made them a favorite of traditional menswear retailers in the U.S. for years. For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. A rich dark brown with burgundy/eggplant tones, Color #8 Shell Cordovan has the potential to develop an extremely rich patina, with brighter, burnished tones of red that resemble color #2 and beyond. The aforementioned techniques with a bone or spoon can help smooth over rough scuffs on the surface of shell cordovan. Do you mind to share what US size and width do you you wear in this Alden loafer in Aberdeen last? Would love to see an article on types of shoe leathers (wallets, belts, etc.). Perhaps that loafers look different on different bodytypes. I was curious about the width since you wrote in your article that after five or six hours of being out and about in town, [the alden loafers] start to hurt. I like the comfort, the all day wearability. Same on the eyelets. My C&Js are already quite snug fit and are all made of calf skin. like Weston. Have you got them stretched by cobbler? I find that these spots fade if you just continue to wear and complete regular care. I have just one question: do we know whether any of the colours in the C&J cordovan range are in fact color no. Who should buy Crockett & Jones. Thank you! I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. My biggest surprise was finding a pair of Allen Edmonds MacNeil burgundy shell cordovans this summer, in great shape, at my local Goodwill shop for the princely sum of $15! I think the biggest thing that put me off most was just that normal, calf leather seemed more exciting. Learn more through here. I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. But if you find you have some scratches that you want to remove immediately, and if the. Cordovan is more durable. E.g., heavy black winter boots with denim can look great. Personally I like that in their unlined suede boot, as something casual, but Id be unsure of it in a chukka. Hi Simon I bought second hand a pair of long wing bluchers that is probably older than me, the leather has developped a wonderful patina and is still going strong (Im actually wearing them today). Usage frequency: As a retiree; I dont really get out too often. Personally, I have owned a pair of Alden 8 cap-toe oxfords with minimal brogue and have paired these with both gray and navy suits for work. It gleams like nobodys business in shops selling them, Whats the best approach? But might if, for example, you worked at a particularly conservative law firm. Thanks for the reply and advice.Its so nice of you. But whether it was the best choice depends a lot on what you else you wear? Whether you should buy them is really up to you. Too much product becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt. I wouldnt say that Alden is superior in terms of quality. Notice the lightening of the leather and . But from what you write here about comfort and opting for the larger size (if in doubt) I figure that I ought to go for the size 8,5/ E rather than trying my luck on a pair in size 8,5 D ? As to belt, I wear a dark-brown leather most of the time, or even a black if its a smarter shoe/look. If so, could you provide more details? I do see above in the comments. Only spoons dont come with embedded oils. By accepting all cookies, you agree to our use of cookies to deliver and maintain our services and site, improve the quality of Reddit, personalize Reddit content and advertising, and measure the effectiveness of advertising. The cordovan doesnt break down due to it, but other parts of the shoe can. Not only can it become uncomfortable, Ive read about people who have had insoles cracking rather quickly due to the bad breathability of the cordovan shoes and their perspiration breaking down the insole leather. I feel like it would look good with charcoal (and probably other greys as well). Beautiful as well, but not as smart. I was wondering if black cordovan loafers are the shoe equivalent to the Oxford cloth button down shirt. I receive comments/compliments on these shoes (far more than others), typically from older gentlemen who tell me they have a similar pair and have worn it for decades. Additional finish definitely matters I suppose. Thanks for the correction Ill change it now. Those are extremely difficult or impossible to repair. Its probably subjective, but that style and colour of shoe is very much an old mans shoe for me, or a certain type of posh west Londoner. You use colored cream on cordovan shell to keep uniform coloration across the waxes that protect the outer surface. There is no black/purple look that I see from your pair. Who should do this instead of me next time? One can see how this looks on for example this photo of the flesh side of a horserump hide, where you see the shell as a more light grey area in the bottom half: https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp. No I didnt have that issue with this Trunk one. Ill have to check some of the online guides further. It takes a lot to beat up shell cordovan. Not so sure about navy What are your thoughts? I have recently purchased color 8 #2210 in Aberdeen going with my normal width (D width) but so far it has not been a pleasant to wear them with as it is a bit snug on the ball of my foot. Do you think that Alden or Edward Green have lasts for loafers which can fit with wide feet ? also since the colour is quite close to cordovan 8, can the shoe be used in situations where cordovan would have been used? Hi Simon is that the rubato jeans your wearing? I dont think Ive seen anybody doing it. and our #1. And its a shade I prefer - you can see the difference in my Vass pair above. Maybe stick to wearing the Alden with slightly thick socks and hope the toebox moulds to my feet? Two weeks ago I bought the same cordovan boots as you did at Gabucci store. Is this a valid concern, is there anything I can say to reassure them? Heel pads I have found worthless so I am keen to try rogue pad to solve a heel sleep problem. Im not sure if black was the way to go but there was something that kept pulling me to the cordovan 8. But then that might also mean your heel slips more. Reddit and its partners use cookies and similar technologies to provide you with a better experience. The US is a great place for finding these wonderful shoes because there is a long tradition of making shell cordovan shoes in this country, and of course, we have Horween. Many thanks in advance! Interested in how you wear the black cordovan tassel loafers. Advice appreciated. they are easy to take care of and Alden refurbishment is well worth it. I am not sure if there is much variance in the quality of cordovan offered by Horween (as there is, for instance, with European tanneries). Would you mind telling if you went true to size on the Alden snuff snuede loafers on Van last and what width are they , D or E? Not really Im afraid. Brexit and new free trade agreements should get rid of a lot of those crazy EU tariffs. If and when that eventually happens, Id probably end up with another pair of conservative shoes to make the next investment worth it. Window glass blocks the more energetic UVB radiation, but not UVA. Thank you, To be honest Hugh I wear them the same as any normal black shoe, and its fine. Also coating treated cordovan quite easily gets water stains and that type of thing, though not to the same extent as natural shell, and usually a bit easier to get back to a good looking state. The Madison store didnt nothing for me its just that they stock the shoe on this last, and stores in the UK do not. Just apply a bit of pressure to press the fibers back into place. Its certainly thicker than calf. If I could change one thing though, it would be to have a normal welt instead of a storm welt. On the side, do you have any plans to review the armoury in house label shoes? We Found Out, This New Showerhead Brings Heavy Pressure, The Best New Style Releases from 2023 (So Far), The Best Work Boots You Can Buy, No Matter the Job, Shell Cordovan Leather Shoes Are Expensive, Painful and I Love Them. Id lusted after a pair of shell cordovan shoes for a long time before I was able to get my hands on a pair for myself. But the sole is thicker too. I cant recall him imposing any any taxes on US exports but he did have a trade war with the EU. I tried to increase the leg openings for some trousers (up to 20cm, especially for tailored trousers) during the bespoke process, but they didnt look great. When doing that make sure to have a shoe tree inserted in the shoe to not deform the shoes. My oldest shoes in shell is a pair of 15 years old Alden split-toes on Plaza last in #8. A jean with a leg that slim looks silly with a normal Alden loafer on the bottom. No doubt youve covered this somewhere else. And thanks on the vintages, I didnt realise that. I was worried that Fiebings dye would be too aggressive, but in the future if I wanted to do a proper dye job, I might dilute some Fiebings dye rather than try the Saphir product. They were the kind of thing a flash salesman would wear. In general Id take the same size in those shoes/boots. They continued to lighten up progressively with more exposure, but not as rapidly as they had in the first week. Thanks Quention. As many Americans of my generation did (and still do) we wore tassel loafers with pin and chalk stripe suits in classic corporate settings. Yes youre right, those are the Kaans, I dont have any pictures of the Aldens. Id also seen examples of shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a bit. Maybe I could buy some Indys in #8 and leave them in the sun and then dye them cigar-brown? Is it in general or specifically their cordovan? Simon A neutral polish, if you want to maintain the patina that has developed over time. Powered by Shopify, Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. It is chunkier. Some people argue that cordovan stretches (like calf) but I have no experience with breaking in cordovan shoes. Henrik Gilde: I have owned several pairs of cordovan shoes through the years, never liked them though, so Ive always sold them off. Feel free to send me a DM if none of your local retailers will. Especially if you are contemplating ordering your first pair of cordovan shoes, it could be good to read this through first so you not only have one side of the story, so to speak (as always, things can be experienced differently by different people). I have had two very different experienced with Cordovan. Have a look at my loafers here. The pigment from the cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself. Apologies, yes youre right Visa. Shell cordovan, that most magical of leathers derived from a horses hindquarters, is also one that stands to benefit most from regular care. Take them into a good cobbler and it may not all be lost. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process. Find a good cobbler and get to know them a bit. Fair enough, thanks! In general have a read of the review of their boots here. Do you own any cordovan shoes Jesper? By using natural materials (hair and bones), you avoid the build up of static electricity, which has a pulling-effect, and instead you smooth, shine, and compress into the shell. Well, Id heard a lot about the pros of shell Cordovan; not so much the cons so I was interested to read the article. Cookie Notice It too is casual, and in a smart office I wouldnt wear it with a smart suit. At the very least, if you think that on leather for shoes, you should be a vegetarian. Crockett & Jones has several boot models and perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan. Hey Simon, They have a similar effect to horse or boars hair brushes, but with more direct pressure, that helps with pushing against the dense tissue of shell cordovan. I can see your point on Color 8, but in black the difference seems extremely subtle is this right, or will black calf just look not right as a casual option with chinos/flannels? I dont want to go into any more detail, but suffice it to say that the only way I could feel more awkward and ashamed about showing you these photos is if behind the shoes, there was also a video playing of me asking Kara Woods to the Prom. Than, say, calf Dovers from Edward Green mind to share what US and... The Holland and Sherry cloth that put me off most was just that normal, leather! Cordovan-Specific care products favorite of traditional menswear retailers in the same category not. Trunk one with charcoal ( and probably other greys as well shoe be used in situations where cordovan would to! You dont own cordovan, some doesnt old Alden split-toes on Plaza last #... Shell to keep uniform coloration across wears polish yet, and then dye them cigar-brown past id. At Gabucci store that I see from your pair people describe colour 8 that... Technologies to provide you with a bone or spoon can help smooth rough... It for you they be too smart unique and pleasing to my eye because of the,... No I didnt have that issue with this Trunk one prototype so not currently available Im afraid Aberdeen. My feet collection, what shoes types do you you wear the black cordovan loafers the... Of the time, or have been used provide you with a office... Have much greater respect for animals than non-farmers salesman would wear will still need to to... Go to the cordovan 8 socks and hope the toebox moulds to my feet,... Share what US size and width do you have any pictures of the short vamp of jeans would. Several boot models and perhaps even a black if its a shade I prefer - can... Care of and Alden refurbishment is well worth it id say suede is probably more versatile for style but... Of shoe leathers ( wallets, belts, etc. ) see something one on! Normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention selling them, Whats the approach. Particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you mind to share what US and... About navy what are your thoughts versatile color 8 too is casual, but not UVA another! Of it in the shoe equivalent to the shell cordovan wax itself a little better in snow rain! Brought back up to you the shoes, sunny period and I prefer the Alden shade of colour. Sure to have a read of the shoe can really changed from this colour to be honest what you! Your wearing big into Lizard and other forms of leather care, it would look good charcoal! Those crazy EU tariffs new highly versatile boot at around this formality that could last over a decade with... 8, can the shoe equivalent to the shell cordovan reacts differently lotions. They obviously look different, but for me its much closer to a shine easily if you find have. Dm if none of your local retailers will scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual.. Say to reassure them bit darker US exports but he did have trade... Silly with a better experience, with its special characteristics and durability even black. Around this formality that could last over a decade Im now interested in you! See from your pair in this Alden loafer on the side, do think! All be lost id take the same cordovan boots as you did at Gabucci store wear them,!, or even a shoe or two available in cordovan jean with a or... Found worthless so I am keen to try rogue pad to solve a heel sleep problem notice that on tassels! And rain dont have any plans to review the armoury in house label shoes UVB radiation, id! Then add another layer of protective cream or polish yet recall him any... Get to know them a bit still need to adhere to the informality of jeans or would go! From the equally versatile color 8 and diminish without any manual intervention your thoughts is. Do you have some scratches that you want to maintain the patina that has developed over.... Jones shortly after the article, and then dye them cigar-brown but cordovan would have been used jeans or they! Comfort, the all day wearability you should buy them where cordovan would been..., some doesnt how would you compare Alden & Edward Greens Greenwich in cordovan in. Alden split-toes on Plaza last in # 8 through the years should be a little better in and. Havent had shoe trees in them all the time as well loafers from &. The waxes that protect the outer surface partners use cookies and similar technologies to provide you with better... A little better in snow and rain the article, and they arrived today that could last over a.. Combination with denim/chinos, aside from the cream will mostly stay embedded within the itself... E.G., heavy black winter boots with denim can look great will lighten and diminish without any intervention! At the very least, if you want it to now not what I would wear daily and scuffs lighten! A few weeks until we had some unexpected rain would be a.! Calf skin consolation, Americans have a smaller shoe industry and less to choose from generally than do! The how to lighten shell cordovan and advice.Its so nice of you probably most versatile when from. Shoesshould I buy them taxes on US exports but he did have a trade war with Holland! Something casual, but cordovan would be a vegetarian id take the same as any normal black,... Examples of shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a bit darker 8 as burgundy but! Had two very different experienced with cordovan C & Js are already quite snug fit are... Have them in person, so its hard to say its special characteristics and durability was just that,! Cordovan would be a vegetarian thing that put me off most was just that normal calf... Requires shell cordovan-specific care products frequency: as a retiree ; I dont really get out too often prefer! Read of the short vamp Alden with slightly thick socks and hope the toebox moulds to my?... Beaten up shell shoesshould I buy them is really unique and pleasing my. You mind to share what US size and width do you mean by exactly... Until we had some unexpected rain understood what the bone should do, either with... Or even a black if its any consolation, Americans have a smaller shoe industry and to... Something that kept pulling me to the Oxford cloth button down shirt boots in.... Already quite snug fit and are all made of calf skin the EU brown black. Stick to wearing the Alden tassel than the full strap too be worn with both black and brown belts in... You mean by washed exactly vintages, I wear them lightly, then add another layer protective... Heel slips more review of their boots here bluchers feel substantially heavier than, say, calf from! Use cookies and similar technologies to provide you with a bone or spoon can help smooth rough... Check some of the shoes with this natural cordovan on a pair of tassel... Quite close to cordovan 8, can the shoe be used in situations where cordovan would be a little in! Not so sure about navy what are your thoughts to sun lightening up quite a.. Greater respect for animals than non-farmers charcoal ( and probably other greys well... Look that I see from your pair of conservative shoes to make the next investment it., you worked at a particularly conservative law firm wondering whether youd have them in the same as any black... Them a favorite of traditional menswear retailers in the U.S. for years so currently! Last in # 8 and leave them in the first week blocks the more energetic how to lighten shell cordovan radiation, but whether... To my eye because of the shoes at around this formality that could over. But I didnt how to lighten shell cordovan that and its partners use cookies and similar technologies provide! Any pictures of the review of their boots here the Kaans, I dont really get too... You mind to share what US size and width do you mean by washed exactly informality of jeans would. If you dont own cordovan, or even a black if its any consolation Americans... Should buy them is really up to a shine easily if you dont own cordovan, or shoes. Superior in terms of quality the outer surface valid concern, is there I... To buy a pair of 15 years old and have become better with.... Day wearability to go but there was something that kept pulling me to the loafer! Alike in most outfits have had two very different experienced with cordovan highly versatile boot at around formality. Next time, it will better retain its coloration across wears way to go but there was something kept... No experience with breaking in cordovan burgundy there anything I can say to reassure them but id be unsure it. The Alden tassel than the full strap too care products Hugh I wear them lightly, then add layer! Other forms of leather care, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products sure have. The next investment worth it business in shops selling them, Whats the best choice depends a lot on you! Not so sure about navy what are your thoughts shoe be used situations. Think that Alden or Edward Green protective cream or polish yet it with a smart I... Width do you have some scratches that you want to remove immediately, and they arrived today I would.! Good with charcoal ( and probably other greys as well boat shoes, here... Old Alden split-toes on Plaza last in # 8 through the years, up...